Recession-proof classics, punchy colors and innovative designs are in the cards this year for collectors looking to build the ideal jewelry box. By Sonia Esther Soltani.


1. Glamorous diamonds

“Buy less but better” has become a life motto for many sustainability-conscious luxury consumers. Jewelry is no exception. In more challenging economic times, classic styles hold an undeniable appeal, especially if they come from brands with strong resale power — think Harry Winston, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels or Bulgari. Diamond-set rivière necklaces and tennis bracelets are excellent long-term purchases and perfect staples for starting a refined collection.

Cluster diamond bracelet by Harry Winston 

Diamond wrist and neck stack by Anita Ko

2. Chains aplenty

Yellow gold is reigning supreme across all categories, and if there’s one style that looks great in this metal color, it’s the versatile chain necklace. Whether it’s an antique piece or a contemporary creation, dainty or bold, thin enough to layer or spectacular enough to wear on its own, the link look is popular among all demographics and genders. Mixing eras is welcome, too. 

Georgian gold chain from Doyle & Doyle 

Cable Edge necklace in recycled 18K gold by David Yurman

3. Gender fluidity

Not every red-carpet trend translates into bulk purchases for retailers, but men embracing diamond-set jewelry — necklaces, bracelets, brooches and statement rings — has been a frequent occurrence for years now. Both up-and-coming designers and big brands like De Beers are catering to a market that doesn’t want to be boxed in. Jewels that transcend gender boundaries are especially appealing to Gen Z buyers. Timeless signet rings, geometric pendants playing on negative space, and easily stackable bracelets occupy prime spots on many collectors’ wish lists.


RVL signet ring in white gold by De Beers

Diamond wrist and neck stack by Anita Ko


4. Sentimental jewels

If you think hearts are only suitable for a Valentine’s Day display, you’re missing out on a huge opportunity for year-round romance, not to mention self-purchasers seeking love-related motifs. With Victorian jewelry having a moment, and with designers joyfully deploying heart-shaped diamonds or modern takes on the traditional theme, there’s a great range of options that will let you accessorize your heart out.


Antique diamond heart locket by Ashley Zhang

Diamond signet ring by Sydney Evans


5. The fashion-forward bride



Champagne diamond dome ring by Octavia Elizabeth

Textured ring in 18K yellow gold with a 1.08 CT marquise-shaped diamond by Phillips House


6. Bursts of color

When designers traditionally known for their diamond jewelry — such as Melissa Kaye and Nadine Aysoy — released color-centric collections at the last Couture show, buyers knew vibrant jewels were here to stay. Using a rich array of colored gems and tapping the vast potential of enamel, designers who have self-purchasing women in mind are creating eye-catching pieces that complement classic collections and give first-time buyers a taste for the bold and playful.




Lenox ring collection by Melissa Kaye

Catena earrings by Nadine Aysoy